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Havana - Enjoy the History and Stick with the Locals

Story and Photos by Lauren Gifford


Written on the inside of my tattered Lonely Planet Cuba guidebook is advice a Cuban friend gave me the first time I visited the country. He said, “Things here never happen then way you expect them to.”

Four years and three visits later, I know exactly what he means. I travel to Cuba to study the country’s agriculture, which is heavily diversified and largely organic since the economic drought following the fall of the Soviet Union. While I love visiting farms and smaller cities, the Cuban capital is my favorite place for adventure. Havana is top notch, with exceedingly friendly people, a thriving arts and cultural scene, and picture-perfect moments at every turn. The place is remarkable in its dichotomy of socialism and hedonism.

The historic architecture, antique American cars, questionable street food and dramatic history make Havana a worthwhile escape. Old Havana, adjacent to Havana harbor, is a tourist haven, with horse and carriage rides, fancy restaurants (with matching prices), vendors and street hustlers. The old Spanish architecture, weathered by salt air and tropical storms, is offset by the brilliant colors you’ll find all over Cuba: Overgrown hibiscus trees, laundry hung out to dry, women with styled hair and manicured nails, dressed in hot pinks and oranges, and street vendors hocking wooden jewelry, musical instruments and kitschy paintings.

Old Havana is a UNESCO World heritage site, and in the past few years the country has put a lot of money into the restoration of dozens of historic buildings. El Moro, a historic castle - and Che Guvera’s former office - both across Havana harbor, are backdrop to the city’s largest tourist market. Catch a ferry across for a closer look. Stretching a few miles along the coast from the Havana Harbor to the suburb of Miramar is the famous Malecon, the seaside walk where Cubans and tourists alike congregate to socialize, fish or, like the rare group of teenage boys, swim along the rocky shore.

The 1959 Cuban Revolution, which brought Fidel Castro to power and made Che Guevera infamous, is alive and well in Havana, with pro-socialist murals and advertisements on most streets and tourist shops selling t-shirts and memorabilia donning the likeness of Che’s face. Of course, the Museo de la Revolucion in Old Havana is a must-see. What better way to understand the passion of the Cuban people than to learn about their very recent political revolution?

Art, music and dance in Cuba are world-class. If you can swing it, go see the Ballet Nacional de Cuba, next to the Capital building. You won’t be disappointed, by the dance or the architecture. Tickets for tourists run about $10.

You’ll also quickly notice that all the businesses are state-owned, and they all sell the same products: three types of soda, two types of beers, one brand of chips, etc. Instead of shopping, enjoy the vivacious Cuban culture. Stop at outdoor agro-markets for fruits and nuts to snack on, and explore side streets where you’re sure to come across musicians, artists or a game of dominos.

It’s best to avoid the pricy (also state-run) hotels and stay at a casa particular, a private home where the family rents out a room or two. Homes with rooms available are identified by the sticker on the door with a blue image of a sideways “H” and the words “Arrendardor Divisa.” In most cases, if the room is already rented, the host will direct you to a friend or neighbor with a place available. Room rates run $15 to $30 CUC per night (see section on money). Breakfast or dinner can usually be negotiated into the price, or for a few dollars more.

Havana, and Cuba as a whole, offers one-of-a-kind culture with lots to do. While you’ll likely be impressed by the quirky nature of the socialist country, be warned that it is a finicky place to travel. Pack nuts and dried fruits, in case the street food does not agree with you. Bring sturdy walking shoes, because taxis get expensive. And, as always, travel with an open mind, because, as my friend said, things there never work out the way you expect them to. But, even if it isn’t what you planned, it’s impossible to leave Havana without an adventure!

How to Get There

Daily direct flights to Havana’s Jose Marti airport on Cubana Air are offered from Cancun, Mexico and Nassau, Bahamas, among other locations. Canadian outfitter Wow Cuba will book all the flights for you for a small fee, and it’s worth it.

A taxi from the airport to Havana costs $25 CUC.

Where to Stay

Havana is home to three main neighborhoods: Tourist-filled Old Havana, crowded and bustling Centro Havana, and once-suburban Vedado. I prefer Vedado because of its access to grocery stores, agro-markets, the University of Havana and the must-see one-square block ice cream palace Coppelia. It also has tree-lines streets and many bars, restaurants and casa particulars.

Mercedes Gonzales rents out two clean rooms, each with private bath and 24-hour hot water, in her sophisticated and keenly located apartment. ((JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address), 537-832-5846)

Two blocks away, Jose “Pepe” Barreto also has a well-equipped room with large bathroom and a private screened porch where you can enjoy breakfast. ((JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address), 537-832-0967)

For those who prefer hotels, there’s Hotel Vadado, popular with students; Hotel Habana Libre, a former Hilton before the 1959 Revolution; and Hotel National, the most ritzy and un-Cuban of them all.

Money

One of the most confusing aspects of Cuban life is the duel currency. Cuban’s use pesos for basic purchases, including fruits, vegetables and street food. Yet pesos, worth the equivalent of about 4 cents U.S., are virtually worthless. Tourists are encouraged to use the Cuban Convertible Paso (CUC), which is about an equal exchange with the U.S. dollar (Castro outlawed the dollar as the Bush administration tightened the embargo).

Most currencies, including the U.S. dollar (though there’s sometimes a 10 percent fee) can be exchanged for Cuban Convertible Pesos at hotels and banks. To get your hands on the local currency, look out for the CADECAs, which are located throughout the city, usually at the entrance to agro-markets.

And be warned, both Cuban currencies are useless outside the country, so unless you want a souvenir, exchange the last of your cash at the airport.

Travel for Americans

Because of the U.S. embargo on Cuba, the U.S. Department of State has placed a number of travel restrictions on Americans who wish to visit Cuba. Most American’s need a permit, though the recent political climate has eased the rules dramatically. For all the specifics, which change regularly, visit the State Department’s Cuba site.

Also important: The U.S. doesn’t have an embassy in Cuba, just an Interest Section on Swiss property. The Interest Section operates much like an embassy and can assist if a passport is lost or stolen.

Lauren Gifford is a freelance writer.