Cool Escapes

• Field Notes

Cool Escapes

Morgan Roth explores Sayulita, a sleepy seaside gem in Mexico.

Sayulita is a small fishing village located on the Pacific coast of Nayarit, Mexico, just 45 minutes north of the Puerto Vallarta airport. But don’t be fooled by its close proximity to the strip mall-lined streets of Puerto Vallarta. While Sayulita may not be an “undiscovered” location (since it has gained fame as a surfing mecca of sorts), it still appears to be virtually untouched by the modern world. The cobblestone and dirt roads are filled with activity, and it’s not unusual to have to maneuver around herds of chickens or playing children.

If you want to experience the authentic culture of Mexico, Sayulita is really a great place to go. Sayulita was originally founded by four Mexican families who still maintain the largest presence in the village of about 2,500. Ten years ago tourism was virtually non-existent in this small peublo, and although it has certainly grown since then, the village has done an extremely good job of retaining its culture and relaxed feel.

It is also affordable. There are many family-owned bungalow-style hotels that are perfect for a low budget. Even nice bungalows (such as Lunamar Bungalows) can sleep three and only cost $50 during the high season. Of course if you are looking to splurge, Villa Amor, located at the end of town, is always an option. The villas wind their way around a small verdant hill over looking the beach. All of the villas are open air.

Eating can also be very affordable. Some of the most delicious meals are found in small unassuming cafes, where a filling meal for two can easily cost less than $15.

Don’t leave Sayulita without trying out surfing. There are opportunities to visit Sayulita with Surf groups (such as Las Olas Surf Safaris for Women) which will provide daily instruction. If you don’t want to surf everyday, there are countless surf shops that offer hourly rentals or instruction.

While Sayulita is less than a mile long, and only a few blocks deep, there are a lot of small shops lining the small streets. Take time to explore the town and try out your Spanish or ask locals how to say things “en español.”

Where to Eat

For breakfast there is no question that Rollie’s is the place to go. Run by an expat Californian principal and his wife, Rollie’s has delicious food and huge portions at a bargain.

But the best food in town is arguably from the Sayulita Fish Taco. It’s easy to pass by, because there are only three tables up a narrow flight of stairs off the street front.

How to Get There

The drive from the Puerto Vallarta airport is about 45 minutes, and some Sayulita hotels offer taxis. There are also taxi services that can be contacted ahead of time. Once in Sayulita you will have no need for transportation, as everything is easily accessible by foot.