Hot Escapes
Exploring Bocas del Toro, Panama
Story and photos by Jessica Mack
My sister lives on a sailboat in Panama. This winter, that became the perfect excuse to escape the frigid temperatures of New York for an island holiday on Bocas del Toro, an idyllic archipelago on the northern coast of Panama. I left New York City, where I work for a global health organization, in a blanket of white snow, and just five hours later was breathing in warm, equatorial winter air.
My flight from New York was direct to Panama City, the country’s capital located in the central-south of the country. I stayed the night there before boarding a second, much smaller plane to Bocas del Toro. Bocas has a truly classic “paradise” look and feel, and the variety of the geography combined with the numerous islands to explore make it a popular haunt for the boating crowd and vacationers alike.
I have to admit, in the scheme of Latin America, Panama was barely a blip on my radar before my sister moved there. But it’s truly a beautiful country with a fascinating history, and not to mention home to one of the world’s most impressive architectural feats, the Panama Canal. Panama City was a fun and bustling place, full of new growth and high rises.
Once landed in Bocas, though, the bustle slowed to a crawl. You know when your luggage is unloaded by hand, and brought over one piece at a time, that efficiency is not of utmost concern. It was time to embrace the island way of life.
The main island in Bocas is called Isla Colon, where the majority of stores, restaurants, hostels and tour operators are. My sister lives on Isla Carenero, which is quieter and less developed but still close enough to the action on Colon with just a five-minute boat ride. Isla Carenero is small enough to be circumambulated in under an hour, and is less beach-y than it is jungle-y. Many of the structures are built on stilts out over the water, so you’re usually either on a boat, on a dock, or in the water.
Water is the way of life in Bocas. When you hear “taxi,” you should assume that means water taxi, a cheap, easy and reliable way to get anywhere you want to go. Nothing is too far away in Bocas. Luckily, I had access to my sister’s trusty boat which enabled us to navigate the mangroves and beaches of Bocas at our leisure.
We took a few day trips to some of the more popular and beautiful beaches in the area: Red Frog and Wizard beaches on neighboring Isla Bastimentos, and Starfish Beach on Isla Colon (a bus from the center of town will drop you just nearby). There are also a number of excellent snorkeling spots where you can check out old shipwrecks and colorful coral reefs.
As for non-water activities, I took a refreshing yoga class at the Genesis Creativity House on Isla Colon, which offers a range of classes and where a second-floor open air studio gives you a full view of the passing ships.
When the sun sets, as it does at the same time every day this close to the equator, the night life in Bocas is undeniable. Unless you sleep like a log you can’t miss the thumping bass from nightclubs on Isla Colon, which reverberates across the water and seems to increase in volume as the night gets later. Luckily, I had brought ear plugs.
By far the biggest annoyance on Bocas, though, were the chitras, or biting midges. They are almost too small to see, but are incessant and leave your arms and legs covered in small red bites if you’re not prepared. Being prepared means slathering yourself in virtually anything that will repel these buggers. Locals use an herb-oil mix you can buy on any of the islands, but I also found 30% DEET quite effective.
The food on Bocas was amazing, with fresh seafood, fruit and juices at every meal. While most food was moderately priced, there was a significant range, from a simple fried meat and rice, to more elaborate fare like sautéed conch and fresh crab ravioli. If you’re in the mood for something different, check out Island Time, on Isla Bastimentos, an authentic Thai restaurant situated in the jungle’s canopy. The fresh noodle dishes, with chili peppers straight from Thailand, make the steep hike up well worth it. If you’re out on a boat near dinnertime, look out for fishing kayukas (single log canoes used by locals for fishing and transport) returning with the catch of the day.
Although it was a bit strange to wake up on Dec. 25 to palm trees instead of Christmas trees, between the fresh fish, the hot sun, and the warm Caribbean water, it one of the best holidays yet.
Where to Stay
On Isla Carenero:
Aqua Lounge (budget hostel)
Buccaneer Resort
Casa Aquario (very nice, reasonably-priced)
On Isla Colon:
Mondo Taitu (budget hostel)
Hotel Olas
Getting There
Aeroperlas and Air Panama have daily flights to Bocas from Albrook Domestic Airport in Panama City, and Nature Air flies to Bocas from Costa Rica. Flights are approximately 45 minutes and cost $90 one way. A taxi between Tocumen International Airport (where international flights land) and Albrook takes about 30 minutes and will cost you about $30. Delays on flights to Bocas are common, and it can be difficult to line up the arrivals and departures of flights to make the entire trip in one day.
Other Things to Know
U.S. dollars are accepted; bring cash to avoid ATM fees. English is spoken widely but come prepared with some basic Spanish.
Jessica Mack is senior associate at Global Health Strategies.
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