Hot Escapes
Dominican Republic
By Tina Flores
The Dominican Republic, with its verdant mountains, beautiful beaches and friendly locals, is a tourist destination for most. But for many in the development community, the DR - Santo Domingo in particular - is a pit stop on the way to work in neighboring Haiti.
This was even truer following the Jan. 12 earthquake near Port-au-Prince, when aid workers flew to the Dominican capital on their way by air or land to the devastated region.
I was in Hispaniola - the island that DR and Haiti share - in October to learn about a bi-national malaria program on the border of the two countries. Created with seed money from the Carter Center, President and Mrs. Carter were visiting the region to rally support for the program.
Santo Domingo is the largest metropolis as well as the capital of the Dominican Republic. Aside from being the seat of government, it is also a lovely place to spend a few days away from the field.
The Zona Colonial is akin to stepping into an old European city. Indeed, many who live in this area are European expats. Established by Spanish explorers, this historic center of Santo Domingo with its cobblestone streets, stone fortresses and beautiful churches, is well restored.
The Parque Colon, in the heart of Zona Colonial, is a great place to grab a drink and absorb local culture. It is where souvenir shops, street vendors, pigeons and history collide. The Cathedral Primada de America, built in the 1500s, anchors the square and is an exquisite example of Spanish architecture and a refuge from the afternoon heat.
Walking around the Zona Colonial, you will appreciate the area’s vibrant arts community. From local paintings and metal sculpture, to the musicians and dancers that dot street corners, there is much to absorb.
Baseball is king in the Dominican Republic. But keep your Yankee hats at home, because the Red Sox seem to be local favorites.
Further afield, there is the beachfront Malecon, with its Western hotels and casinos. The limestone caves of Los Tres Ojos, and the National Botanical Garden offer reprieve for nature lovers. And, there are two beaches - Boca Chica and Juan Dolio - 30 to 40 minutes by cab from the capital - nearly as far to the international airport as Santo Domingo proper.
Where to stay
Hilton - the Hilton Hotel on the Malecon has all the amenities of Western hotels. With its meeting facilities and rooftop pool, it is an ideal place to host events, press conferences, meetings, etc. A $10 cab ride from the Zona Colonial, the Hilton’s staff can assist in planning any shopping or sightseeing. Note: Don’t be fooled by the posh surroundings- the water is not potable, and bottled water is quite pricey. The best solution is to pick up bottled water elsewhere.
Hotel Atarazana - Located at the tip of the Zona Colonial, the Hotel Atarazana is a jewel of a boutique hotel. It has six high-ceilinged rooms, each with its own balcony, spacious bathrooms and free wifi. Don’t be surprised if one of the owners joins you for breakfast, which offers lush local fruit, eggs and strong coffee. The hotel also has its own cab driver/tour guide who is a font of information.
Getting Around
The safest way to get around is by taxis provided by the hotel. They have pre-negotiated rates to the major tourist attractions. Otherwise, negotiate the fare before getting into a cab. The Zona Colonial is best explored on foot and for a few dollars’ tip, a tourist guide can show you the area.
If you are taking a flight to another part of Hispaniola - either in the DR or Haiti - note that there are two airports that serve Santo Domingo. If you are traveling with a large group, consider taking a charter flight, which is very affordable.
Money
Any bank in Santo Domingo or on the border will exchange U.S. dollars to Dominican currency with a passport. If you are at the Malecon, here’s a tip from a bellman - change your money at one of the casinos. They allegedly offer the best exchange rate. Though many places in the Zona Colonial say they accept credit cards, don’t count on it.
A Good Guide
A good guide is particularly helpful in Santo Domingo, where English is not widely spoken. Dominicans are friendly and always happy to help, but a little knowledge of Spanish (or even French) will serve you well during your stay. You can sometimes find guides in the Zona Colonial who will show you the sights for a small tip, but my best friend was the Lonely Planet’s Dominican Republic & Haiti guide. It was particularly useful when gathering information about travel to areas outside of the capital.
Other Details
You need to purchase a $10 tourist visa card upon arrival into Santo Domingo. Members of the media are sometimes charged $150, so plan accordingly.
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